Down-the-hole Hammer
At an actual drilling site, the best equipment is the kind you never have to worry about — it just works steadily without unexpected breakdowns. If you're fed up with DTH tools that look impressive in catalogs but give out as soon as they drill into hard granite, our down-the-hole hammer range is tailor-made for your team.
We didn't design this series to chase empty "revolutionary" hype. Instead, we engineered it for rugged durability, solid reliability, and simple on-site maintenance when tough working conditions arise. When you're drilling 100 meters down with dusk falling, marketing slogans mean nothing. All that matters is your DTH hammer keeps delivering powerful impact nonstop.
What really makes this down-the-hole hammer stand out?
No more broken nylon tubes
Anyone on a drilling site knows how annoying it is when the tiny nylon foot valve tube snaps inside the hammer. It brings everything to a halt, and you waste hours just digging out the broken bits. We've redesigned our high-pressure models with a tubeless structure. That's one fragile, easy-to-break part you no longer have to stress over. You can run higher air pressure without worrying a small plastic piece will shut down your whole job.
Outer sleeve built to go the distance
We made the outer casing of this DTH hammer extra thick-plain and simple, it's built tough. It's crafted from premium alloy steel with precise slow heat treatment, so it stands up brilliantly to heavy abrasion. Drilling into gritty sandstone or tough quartz? This sleeve won't wear thin nearly as fast as cheaper ordinary hammers. Sure, it's a little heavier to carry around, but that extra steel means you drill far more meters before needing a replacement.
Easy field repair, even in mud and rough conditions
We kept the internal structure straightforward and uncomplicated. You don't need fancy gear or professional workshop tools for regular maintenance. All you need is a couple of heavy-duty wrenches and a basic workbench on your truck. You can take it apart, clean it up, and get back to drilling in no time-right there on-site, no fuss.
Impact energy goes into the rock, not beating up your rig
We fine-tuned the piston weight to perfectly match the drill bit. When the hammer hits, nearly all the impact energy transfers straight into the rock. The result is faster drilling speed, and far less vibration bouncing back up the drill string. That also cuts unnecessary wear and tear on your rig's hydraulic system, saving you extra maintenance costs down the line.is one less fragile part to worry about. You can run higher air pressures without the constant fear of a small piece of plastic shutting down your entire operation.
Technical Specs
|
Model Series |
Bit Range |
Top Sub Thread |
Ideal Pressure |
Best Use Case |
|
DHD340 |
110 - 130mm |
API 2 3/8" Reg |
1.0 - 2.5 MPa |
Small holes, high speed blast holes |
|
DHD350 |
135 - 155mm |
API 3 1/2" Reg |
1.5 - 2.5 MPa |
The "Workhorse" for water wells |
|
DHD360 |
155 - 203mm |
API 3 1/2" Reg |
1.5 - 3.0 MPa |
Deep mining & hard rock foundation |
|
DHD380 |
203 - 254mm |
API 4 1/2" Reg |
1.5 - 3.0 MPa |
Large diameter piling & heavy mining |
FAQ: Real Answers for Real Operators
Q: Will this hammer fit my current drilling rig?
A: It sure will. It comes with standard API threads. No matter if you're using an Atlas Copco, Sandvik, or even a locally built custom rig - as long as your thread specs line up, this DTH hammer screws right on perfectly. No extra adapters needed, no special locked-in proprietary parts.
Q: It seems heavier than my old hammer. What's the reason for that?
A: Good eye - it really is heavier. We beefed up both the outer sleeve and the piston with extra material. In drilling work, extra weight equals extra durability. It's a little heavier to haul from the truck up to the rig, but it can take a serious beating pounding rock at 2,000 blows per minute without breaking easily.
Q: I've dealt with cracked pistons before. What makes yours more reliable?
A: Most piston cracks happen from dry running or blank firing - when the hammer's striking nothing but air instead of rock. We enlarged the internal oil pathways, so lubrication flows properly and reaches every key part. That said, you still need to use proper rock drill oil. Let it run dry, and no matter how good our steel is, it'll fail. Don't cut corners on lubrication.
Q: How can I tell when it's time to replace the outer sleeve?
A: Just grab a caliper and measure it. If the outer diameter wears down more than 10% compared to a brand-new one, or you can see a clear narrowed "waist" in the middle, replace it right away. Changing the sleeve early is way cheaper than fishing a broken hammer back out of a 200-meter borehole.
Q: Can it handle water backflow when drilling water wells?
A: We fitted a heavy-duty check valve inside the top sub. As soon as you cut the air supply, it seals tight straight away, keeping mud and dirty water from flowing back into the hammer. It's a straightforward mechanical design that prevents most internal rust and jamming issues.
A Little Honest Advice on Maintenance
We want your equipment to last, but let's be real: no tool survives bad handling. To get the most out of your purchase, keep these two things in mind:
1. Use It Right
Follow operating specs, avoid overloading, and handle with care. Misuse leads to premature failure.
2. Maintain It Regularly
Clean debris, lubricate moving parts, and perform routine checks. Simple care extends tool life dramatically.
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